Agasthyarkoodam: So Close, Yet So Far
Journey filled with hope, adventure, friendships — and nature’s final say.
Journey to Bonacaud
It was a long-cherished dream to trek to the top of Agasthyarkoodam. I finally got the chance when my cousin Ihsan and I decided to register for the 2024 season. We booked our trekking permit on July 13, 2023, for the trek scheduled on February 9, 2024. Luckily, we had already pre-filled our details in the portal, so getting the ticket was smooth without any hassle.
In preparation, I visited a doctor for the mandatory medical certificate. Being a long-distance runner, my doctor didn’t ask many questions and promptly issued the certificate.
On February 8th, I boarded the Janshatabdi from Calicut to Trivandrum, reaching around 10 PM. We had booked a budget room near the KSRTC stand — convenient, since we had to catch the 5 AM bus to Bonacaud the next morning.
Day 1: Trek to Athirumala Base Camp
The next morning, we boarded the 5 AM KSRTC bus to Bonacaud. The bus was already crowded; initially, we had to stand. Only after a while, just before reaching Vithura, did we manage to find seats. At Vithura, the bus halted briefly. Some trekkers had their breakfast from a small tea shop nearby. Since breakfast was arranged at Bonacaud, we just had a quick coffee and reboarded.
At Bonacaud, forest officers inspected our bags for plastics and alcohol. Even the smallest plastic covers — from packaged food items like ORS sachets, protein bars, to medicine strips — were counted! If any plastic was found, they charged a deposit fee for it. The rule was simple: if you returned with the plastic waste, your money would be refunded. A smart and strict way to keep the forest clean — and honestly, it made us respect the place even more.
Soon, we began our trek toward Athirumala Base Camp. I had packed like I was heading for Everest — carrying a huge 60L backpack! It wasn’t really necessary, and honestly, I struggled at times with the weight.
The trail from Bonacaud to Athirumala was a journey through dense forests, open grasslands, and rocky paths. The first few kilometers took us through thick jungle, where tall trees formed a green canopy above us. The air smelled fresh and earthy, and the sounds of birds and distant streams kept us company.
As we moved deeper, the terrain kept changing — sometimes a gradual climb, sometimes slippery patches where roots and rocks demanded extra care. Every now and then, small clearings would open up, offering our first glimpses of distant hills wrapped in mist. Those views kept us motivated to push forward despite the tiredness creeping in.
We took short breaks along the way, sipping water, sharing snacks, and enjoying casual chats with fellow trekkers. The forest trail slowly opened into patches of grassland as we approached Athirumala, and we could feel the mountain breeze getting colder.
The trail was beautiful, and along the way, we made new friends who added more color to the journey. We exchanged stories, helped each other over tricky patches, and laughed over silly things — it already felt like we were part of a small trekking family.
When we finally reached Athirumala Base Camp, it felt like a reward. The campsite is simple but well-organized, with long dormitory-style shelters where trekkers can spread out their sleeping mats. The whole camp is surrounded by a trench on all four sides, built to protect trekkers from wild animals. It gave a real sense of being deep inside the forest, yet safe.
After dropping off our backpacks, we followed the sound of the flowing stream nearby. The cold, fresh water was irresistible. We stepped in, letting the chill wash away all the tiredness from the trail. Splashing around and laughing like kids, it was one of those simple, joyful moments that made the journey truly unforgettable.
After the river bath, a steaming cup of black tea from the canteen warmed us up. We then sat on a big rock facing Agasthyamalai, soaking in the peaceful vibes.
Later that night, they served a simple but hearty meal of kanji (rice porridge) and curry — and guess what, kanji was unlimited! In the cold mountain air, that humble meal tasted better than any restaurant feast.
The Night Sky at Athirumala
At Athirumala Base Camp, the electricity runs on solar power. All the lights switch off by 9:00 PM. After that, it becomes completely dark — no lights, no distractions.
We stepped out of the camp, looking up at the sky. It was filled with stars, shining bright and clear. It felt magical—maybe because there were no lights around, just the pure night sky. We tried to capture the moment with our mobile cameras, but it was impossible to capture that magic. Standing there under that glittering canopy, we realized some things are just meant to be experienced, not photographed. That moment is one I’ll never forget.
Day 2: Attempting the Summit
After a good rest, the morning greeted us with a magical fog. We collected our packed breakfast — poori and upma — but decided to carry it with us instead of eating at the camp.
The route up to Pongalappara was a mix of rocky paths and dense forest. Along the way, we passed large fallen trees, their trunks lying across the trail, and massive tree roots twisting up from the earth. At times, the mist was so thick we could barely see each other as we walked, only the faint white arrow marks on the rocks guiding us forward. The trail was tricky in spots, but the sense of adventure and the mysterious atmosphere made it all worthwhile.
We waited at Pongalappara for a while, hoping the weather would clear enough for a safe summit attempt. Meanwhile, we opened our packed breakfast and sat down to eat. The climate was still wild — misty and windy — but sitting there, sharing poori and upma with friends, made it a meal to remember. The food tasted unbelievably good in that mountain air!
After breakfast, we waited at Pongalappara for a while, hoping the weather would clear.
But as time passed, the fog only thickened and the wind grew stronger.
Due to worsening weather conditions — heavy winds and thick fog — the forest officers decided to call off the summit attempt for the day. We accepted it with a heavy heart but understood the importance of safety in the wild.
On our way back to Athirumala, we tried to lift our spirits by capturing plenty of photos and videos, hoping to hold on to the memories and reduce the sadness of not reaching the summit. Despite the disappointment, we remained hopeful for another chance.
Day 3: Another Attempt and Return
The next morning, good news awaited us!
Instead of sending us back down, the forest officers allowed us to attempt the summit again, along with the new batch of trekkers.
By this time, we had bonded well with the new batch — cracking jokes, sharing struggles, and forming real friendships. Before setting off, we even took a cheerful group photo, capturing our new-found bond.
Once again, we trekked up to Pongalappara, full of hope.
But nature wasn’t ready to let us pass yet — the winds were fiercer, and the fog even denser than before. It felt exactly like the previous day, but this time, we were mentally prepared.
We waited at Pongalappara for a while, hoping the fog would lift, but eventually, we had to accept nature’s verdict and return.
Later, back at the base camp, we created a WhatsApp group for our ‘failed batch’ and named it “Agasthyarkoodam Supply Batch” — because just like exam supplies, we knew we’d be coming back for a second attempt!
On the way back to Bonacaud base camp, we came across some locals carrying gas cylinders up to the Athirumala base camp. It was incredible to see how all the amenities and food items were brought in by walking such long distances — definitely not a cheap affair!
Being a marathoner, I had to check how much distance we covered — and guess what? Strava showed almost 43 kilometers! 🏃♂️
It felt like running a full marathon… but instead of city roads and cheering crowds, it was misty forests, slippery rocks, wild winds, and endless laughter with friends. Easily one of the most adventurous marathons I’ve ever “run!” 😄 Here’s the Strava record that captured it all:
Reflections
Accepting nature’s decision humbly was one of the biggest lessons from this trek.
Even though we didn’t reach the summit, this journey gave us much more — new friendships, unforgettable memories, a deep respect for the wilderness, and a realization that sometimes the experience matters more than the destination.
Agasthyarkoodam will always be there — waiting, majestic and mysterious — for another day.
And when that day comes, we’ll be ready.
